FIRST step, unplug the kiln. Seems pretty basic, but you know how things go!
SECOND step, take the lid off (its held on by a couple of cotter pins and a rod, so easy to remove).
THIRD, open up the controller box (this one has 6 screws down the left hand side and hinges on the right), label all the wires so you can replace them, then cut them off as close to the connecter (a little metal dodad that connects the kiln element to a wire) as you can. You can remove all the little porcelain insulators on the pigtails at this point, they're just going to falldowngoboom when you pull the element out anyway.
FOURTH (and duh, I didn't do this until the very end, but know better now!) lift the box off and get it out of your way. The hinges are just pegs in a bracket so it really does just lift off.
FIFTH unsnap the top ring and remove it. This makes life easier when you have to get to the bottom of this thing.
SIXTH find and remove the pins in the haystack. Er, kiln. There should be one in every corner and anywhere the elements bend around a corner. Needle nose pliers are ESSENTIAL for this, even though the instructions say 'helpful.' Silly people.
SEVENTH remove the elements carefully so you don't destroy the brick. Pull the pigtail out straight so you don't damage the hole, then gently twist and wiggle til the element comes out. If you have a spot that fights you, check and make sure there is no pin left in there. We missed one, and that was where the element broke as we were pulling. Don't know if the fact that we missed it broke the element or if it was broken before, but whatever.
EIGHTH once all the elements are out, vacuum the grooves and bottom of the kiln to get rid of all the accumulated dust. It really helps keep your firings clean so no mystery boogers show up in your glaze.
NINTH find the bottom element, take it out and uncoil it. It'll have pre-stretched corners, so all you want to do is just straighten it out gently. Clip off the loops at the end where they wound the pigtails to double thickness.
TENTH put the first pigtail through the hole, carefully so you don't enlarge the hole. Watch which end you are starting with, the elements do have different ends, the bends will tell you if you have the top or the bottom end.
ELEVENTH carefully work the element into the groove all the way around so the bends line up with the corners and the second pigtail lines up with the second hole.
TWELFTH put new pins in, one in each corner between bricks and a few in where ever the elements look loose. These go in to hold down the elements, it'll stretch and sort of flop out of the groove if its not held in place. They should go in at a slight downward angle over the element. Again, needlenose pliers for the win! A GOOD set, mine were a bit worn out and it was a bit of a pain to hold on to the pins. BLEH.
REPEAT with each element until you are done. You can start anywhere, as long as the top and bottom elements are in the correct place!
OK, now all your elements are in. I've done this twice, and ended up with a pile of extra pins each time, so don't be surprised if you do too.
THIRTEEN reassemble the kiln, replacing any rings you have stashed in the other room to get them out of the way. They need elements too.
FOURTEEN fit the new porcelain insulators on the pigtails, then pull your pigtails out until the element is snug in the groove.
FIFTEEN trim the pigtails to the recommended length. This kiln calls for 5/8 inch.
SIXTEEN go find that box you lifted off back in the fourth step and re-hang it on its hinges
SEVENTEEN crimp the wires and pigtails together PROPERLY with new crimps. This sort of calls for a crimping tool, they're not too hard to get and work nicely.
EIGHTEEN closer er back up, yer done! Well, except for a test fire and such, you want to make sure everything is working properly!